Synopsis: As a general rule, herps should not be handled frequently. Many species do best if not handled at all, or a little as possible. Herps won't interact with humans in the same way that dogs and cats can, but they are capable of affection, and some do seem to enjoy interaction with their owners.
We are so used to seeing reptiles in pet stores and in people's homes that we may forget that reptiles are considered wild animals. Even those bred and raised in captivity may be only one or two generations away from their wild counterparts. Some herps are still captured from their native habitats in the wild and imported into this country. So, whether domestically bred or imported, wild animals they still are!
Many reptiles are fairly low in the food chain, and must constantly be on their guard to prevent being eaten. Such wary behavior may make them nervous in a new or strange environment. Other herps, especially snakes, spend their time hunting for prey items, and may strike at anything that moves. This is their main way of procuring food. So when you acquire a pet herp, you must keep in mind that it is not a domestic animal, like the dog and cat. Those animals have been bred around man for thousands of years, and can be much more predictable pets than are reptiles.
That is not meant to imply that herps cannot make good pets. They certainly can! We just need to keep in mind that our expectations for a pet reptile should be different than those we have for domestic animals. For example, it is natural to expect that a pet dog or cat, once housebroken or litter trained, can wander freely around the house, where it is free to interact with its humans.
I know many families that allow their pet green iguana the same type of freedom in their homes! While in theory this is a neat idea, evoking the Jurassic Park feeling of having a real, live dinosaur lumbering about the living room, in practice this is not good for the lizard. I'm sure that many of you reading this are wondering why. The fact is, while conditions in the average home are very comfortable for its human inhabitants, those same conditions prove less than adequate for a green iguana. The reason being, these lizards are usually found in hot, humid tropical conditions, and unless you live in Florida without air-conditioning, your home does not mimic that tropical environment. For proper digestion and growth, green iguanas should be maintained within a temperature range of 85-90 degrees F, with a focal hot spot of 95-100 degrees F during the day, and the temperature should drop no lower than 70 degrees F at night. The ambient humidity should be much higher than that found in most homes that run air-conditioners in the summer and heat in the winter, both of which tend to dramatically lower humidity. So, in addition to most pet iguanas being maintained at the incorrect temperature, many are chronically dehydrated, as well. While iguanas get a large portion of their needed water from the ingestion of moist fruits and vegetables, many people don't realize that they are good swimmers, and should be allowed to swim at least three times per week. An added benefit to swimming is that many iguanas will evacuate their system while in the water, facilitating clean-ups.
In addition to a free-roaming house iguana not being maintained at the correct temperature and humidity, and not swimming often enough, there is the issue of territoriality. While most green iguanas can be quite adaptable to interactions with humans, adult males, in particular, can be dangerous. Iguanas tend to be wary of strangers, but an adult trying to defend his territory (his home), may unexpectedly attack a human, inflicting serious injuries. There are many reports of adult iguanas attacking (unprovoked) humans, even their owners!
If that is not enough to convince you to keep your pet iguana in a secure cage, consider that visitors to your home might not have that same warm, fuzzy feeling about your green pet as you do! Not only that, but you might leave yourself open for a lawsuit should a visiting child or adult be injured by your pet.
Some green iguanas really seem to enjoy interacting with their owners. The special iguana will actually seek out family members to be petted or rubbed. Some will take food from owner's hands. Other iguanas never seem to tame down, and remain wary of all people. They whip their tails and try to skitter away at every encounter. While the high-strung iguana may tolerate having its cage cleaned, and may allow an owner to place its daily meal in the cage, it may never be happy being touched or held.
It is very important to not try and force a pet herp to conform to what you expect or want it to be. Sometimes, it can be no more than what it already is. If you repeatedly slowly place your hand into the habitat, and are unable to gently slide your hand under a lizard in order to pick it up because it skitters away, you should accept that it might not tolerate handling.
But, conversely, you may be surprised by what one can be! Tortoises, in particular, can be very intelligent, good-natured creatures. Often thought of as slow, both in physical attributes and in brain capacity, tortoises can be wonderful companions. Many enjoy being hand-fed, and others really like being rubbed under the neck, often standing up high on all four legs and stretching the neck way forward. Still, tortoises should not be frequently picked up, as being suspended in the air is unnatural for them.
Other pet herps may thrive in situations where human interaction in minimized. These types of reptiles are best enjoyed from a distance. Classically, chameleons are thought to do best when kept in a solitary environment and handled by humans as little as possible. They live singly and only come together to mate. As you may have assumed by their eye position and movement, they are visually oriented lizards, and change colors and display behaviors when they encounter other chameleons. Typically, when two chameleons meet up, if they are two males, they will begin to engage in combat, and if they are male and female, mating behaviors may ensue. This is why they should be housed alone, and a male only placed in with a female for a few hours (under careful observation) when it is time for them to be bred.
In general, most reptiles should not be handled frequently or for any length of time. Some of the less stress-prone lizards may tolerate some handling, and some snakes may, as well (non-venomous, of course!) While Solomon Island skinks seem large and docile, be aware that they can swiftly inflict a painful bite if startled. Bearded dragons are another group of lizards that often tolerate some handling.
No snake should be handled when it is preparing to shed (this is called in-the-blue). Snakes preparing to shed will have skin with a dull appearance, and the eyes will appear bluish. Snakes cannot see well during this time and appear more nervous; some will strike blindly at perceived movements near them.
Reptiles don't handle stress well. Family members should be instructed that tapping on the glass, moving the cage often or frequently interacting with a herp is inappropriate behavior. Remember that they are wild animals. Children should never be allowed to handle herps unless supervised by a responsible adult.
Most reptiles should be housed singly. In some cases, a group of herps can share a habitat. Young turtles can share an aquarium, as long as dominant or larger ones aren't preventing others from eating, or some are biting at others. Hatchling tortoises of the same species can also share a terrarium. It is very bad practice to house species from different areas of the world in the same habitat. It is likely that doing this can pass diseases. Snakes should be housed singly. Snakes may consume each other if housed together. Many tadpoles and frogs cannibalize each other.
Reptiles can make fascinating pets for the right kind of owner. Herps are not fuzzy, cuddly creatures, but some are able to provide more than minimal interaction with their owner. An owner should never force a herp to interact if it clearly is nervous, uncomfortable or afraid to do so, based on its actions (trying to get away, biting, striking, whipping the tail, etc.) It is important that you learn to accept your herp for what it is and to not try to force it to be what you expect it to be. Each unique herp can and should be appreciated for the wonderful creation that it is.
Copyright © 2006 Margaret A. Wissman, D.V.M., D.A.B.V.P.
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